Stage 2: Akerreta to Pamplona (Curtis’ report)

We were all delighted, we all realized we were leaving confusion and nonsense behind and performing our one and noble function of the time, move. – Jack Kerouac

She's still smiling ...

Only one road report tonight, I’m afraid! We’ve all agreed we’re too knackered to blog in detail, so check back here tomorrow for more detail and for Cheryl’s entry on today’s walk. However, since I don’t want to slide into bad habits so early in the walk, here’s a brief update …

We had another outstanding walking day today, with same brisk autumn temperatures and clear blue skies to accompany us as we set off this morning. The first half of the walk from Akerreta follows the line of the Arga River all the way to Pamplona, so you walk along through the forests that cover slopes of the hills accompanied by the sound of the river singing to you. Unfortunately, this being the modern world, you are also accompanied most of the way by the whine of motor traffic coming from the N-111 highway that also runs through the valley, following the line of both the river and the Camino into Pamplona. Still, there are moments when the river song is so loud that it almost drowns it out.

We only had to cover a meagre 15 kilometers from Akerreta to Pamplona, but that was more than enough for Day 2. Shortening the distance today meant more time for Cheryl and Linda more time to rest and recover from their pre-Camino travels and for me to dash home to take care of some unfinished business.

The shorter distance also meant that Linda got to stretch out on a bench and soak up some rays beside the Church of the Holy Trinity in Trinidad de Arre while she waited for Cheryl and I to appear. It also meant we got to stop at a bar in Villava for coffee, tea and some pinchos (which is what tapas are called in this part of Spain) before completing our walk into Pamplona.

First order of business once inside the walls of the Navarrería neighborhood was to complete our pilgrim wardrobe by picking up some scallop shells at an antique shop; Cheryl and Linda had seen them on other pilgrims packs and wanted to get ones for themselves, and since the shopkeeper had a nice selection of real ones there (instead of the painted manufactured ones you find in souvenir shops along the city’s High Street), I picked one up for myself too.

Since it was just coming on lunchtime by the time we got to the hotel and everyone was feeling quite a bit hungrier than we had the day before, I took the girls to one of my favorite local joints for lunch. I’ve made them vow to not give you any information about it though; it’s filled with locals who go there for the home cooked meals and one of my private pleasures, so no blabbing about it on a blog. You’ll have to find it for yourselves when you come. 😉

Business at home duly taken care of, I headed back to the hotel to meet Cheryl and Linda and head over the Café Iruña for a bit of supper. I was pleased that my colleague Teresa was able to meet us for a bit, and while I would have loved to go for a late night coffee or a copa on Estafeta Street, it was clear we’d hit our limit and needed to sleep. So we dropped a postcard Linda had written to her dad in a letterbox on the square and all headed off to our respective beds.

(Check back for Cheryl’s first entry tomorrow evening!)


One thought on “Stage 2: Akerreta to Pamplona (Curtis’ report)

  1. Hi Linda Cheryl and Curtis
    It is so great to be able to follow you on your journey. And even though you are exhausted how wonderul that exhaustion must feel and please blog I want to hear it all. Linda you sound like you are doing it easy but this may change over time. How are you doing emotionally? I am letting people know about your journey and they are all very interested.
    Love you heaps

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